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direct a film on the late great benefits. Although I basically do not JPG format, however, photographs can not be a must for every post-production, often in ViewNX selected in the first and after a very small part of the screening on the CaptureNX2 in treatment, the majority of photos will be transferred directly to JPG. Search the forums look Basic can not find the optimal alignment on how best to set the discussion. After looking online to buy the D300 a lot of things to learn, that there is not a small gain, specifically some advice on optimizing the calibration settings tidy, open a post for interested Photographer reference. Although the optimization of calibration seems to be, and C, Picture Style (Picture Style) something like that, and C, first-out photos of styles. Optimization of calibration, but I think the style of a lot better than the photos. C photo style is more obvious color cast, a simple model in terms of clear bluish landscape, portrait mode was partial products, new styles available online effects of some of the more similar to the filter. When I used to compare with the 450D model commonly used in landscape, but at the same time in the day some of the color blue was feeling a little unusual. In contrast, N in the optimization of the calibration in changing saturation, contrast and color performance of the time did not result in significant color cast. In addition, when using 450D basic lire each photo should look at the DPP curve, or will be very gray; and optimization of N simple calibration adjustment by the machine to meet the basic requirements of my straight out. I shoot landscapes most preferred high saturation and high contrast colors, I started with in accordance with the views of KenRockwell Vivid mode and the saturation set to +3, so the picture really bright. But watching the film was found in the computer seemed a bit off color. This photo belongs to only look at bright spots, see more abnormal fatigue, and very easy to spill the red green, and some loss of detail is too serious. If people in this little horror film set. Slowly I began to realize that fact, optimization of the calibration set is very particular, for their own need for more accurate calibration of the display of carefully compared to the observations, and some expert advice in this area is also very important to me. 1, select an appropriate optimization optimize the calibration of different calibration default default itself contains different contrast, saturation, sharpness information, such as Vivid saturation is 0, Neutral saturation is +3, but may in fact be the former saturation but also higher than the latter. Jason Odell in his B & W) ##################2X Mode I Medium-low Moderate-low LowD2X Mode II Medium Moderate-low LowD2X Mode III Medium-high Moderate Low in what the default file depends on your requirements. Jason Odell shooting NEF format is generally used when the Standard, he thought it was applicable to most of the time. Requirements for different shooting, Jason Odell recommended starting point is: Subject / Picture Control Preset / Alternate SetPortraits Neutral D2X Mode IWildlife Standard D2X Mode IIILandscapes (low contrast) Vivid D2X Mode IIILandscapes (bright sun) Standard D2X Mode IIIIndoor snapshots Standard D2X Mode ISports Standard D2X Mode IIThom Hogan's D300 Guide on his three-color in default for this evaluation: Standard: Reds are a little orange, greens are a little yellow. Some colors are pushing out of gamut.Neutral: Reds are little better , greens much better. Colors are not quite out of gamutVivid: Way too much color push. Note that we've lost detail in the red roofs. And look at the green, red, yellow, magenta, and cyan patches in the third row of the ColorChecker: wrong, wrong, wrong, a bit exaggerated, and really wrong. While many people like saturated color in their final images, be aware that taking this color back down in post processing is very difficult. It is much easier to add saturation and vibrancy than it is to remove it from an image. In contrast, Thom Hogan prefers D2XMODE default: For me, the downloadable Picture Controls are a much better standard choice than Standard. This is the old Nikon color many of us liked, though the reds still have a bit too much yellow-orange to them to be called neutral. For people use D2XMODE1, for landscapes use D2XMODE3, and for neutral color use D2XMODE2 as your starting point.2, fine-tune the optimal alignment optimized calibration including the 5 aspects of fine-tuning adjustment, namely, sharpness, contrast (C), brightness (B), saturation (S) and hue (H). Specifically it could be a lot of people understand the need to point out that B, I started not understand what it meant to the brightness. Jason Odell written very clearly, the B refers to the brightness of the middle gray, the exposure does not increase the level of the whole picture. Increase in the middle of the curve B is equal to pull up tone, and reduce the pressure of B is to play the role of dark shades between. Although Jason Odell called the fine-tuning of these adjustments (because not in accordance with individual requirements of different colors and make appropriate adjustments part of the screen),headphones Twelve women never know things ( Oh, girls must see ), but in fact, the impact on the screen is still very large. Different individuals will prefer different tastes fine-tuning, which requires repeated careful observation on the screen than the right. ADL is also a need to consider the issue, as long as open ADR brightness and contrast automatically. On whether to use ADR, Jason Odell that all results can be achieved later, so he would not open the ADR, Thom Hogan is also similar views. ADR is in fact open for the exposure and brighten the dark pressure, it will also affect the exposure. Ken's advice is always best to use ADRJason Odell's recommendation is this: Sharpness: Because he has been recommended in NX2 sharpening set to 0 by the USM sharpening to do, so here he did not specifically say. However, in the chapter on the camera settings he suggested that the machine will be set a little higher sharpening helps a little LCD screen on the browser, and then turn off sharpening in post. Contrast: -1,0, or +1. According to the contrast of the scene selection. Thom Hogan has a table Sharpening / Contrast / Brightness / Saturation / HueStandard 5 or 6 Set with scene 0 0 0Neutral 5 or 6 Set with scene -1 or 0 0 0Vivid 4 Set with scene 0 -1 0Monochrome 5 or 6 Set with scene 0 Filter Effects set with scene Toning OffKenRockwell recommendation is this: Things: Vivid Sharpening 5 S +3 ADL Normal / AutoAccurate Color: Standard Sharpening 5 ADL off C-1People: Neutral Sharpening 5 S +13, some of my understanding and my I set my will that my own repeated comparison of different scenarios after photos and also have some of their current feel more appropriate setting. Overall, KenRockwell talk has always been more extreme, so his views must be selective to listen. I personally think that Jason Odell and Thom Hogan's advice is still very valuable reference, especially Jason Odell, a number of relatively more objective. However, as a matter of fact most of these settings are very taking into account the post-processing, so you'll find them for the S and C are very conservative. Low saturation and contrast can be simply resolved by the late, but if the photos will be straight out, the color is not bright. So straight out of the still need to do some personal adjustments. I like the high saturation and high contrast picture, it is like to use landscape mode, the model in the contrast and sharpness better than bright patterns, a little more transparent photographs. The D2XMODEIII performance green will become more green. People on the shoot, D2XMODE1 Portrait of color I think is better than the latter point slightly yellow, but the outdoor portrait shot I would choose the standard model, because the latter can better the performance of the background. I now think the more appropriate setting is so close the ADL. I first read Ken's Guide to making the film are open ADL's, ADL was found in the NX2 is the role of pressure exposure and brighten dark shadows in order to retain highlight detail screen, very similar to the NX2 protection in the dark. This out of the photo to see most of my preferences seem less contrast, a bit gray. After I close the ADL, if there needs to be adjusted in NX2 can simply do it. Sharpness in 5 or 6, according to the subject decision. Shooting Landscape: I am the most commonly used landscape mode, the bright I sometimes use. In my own experience, landscape mode the default in bright contrast and sharpness than high, lower saturation. Landscape Sharpening 6; Sarturation +1 Vivid Sharpening 6; Sarturation +1; Contrast +1 great scenery for the contrast, or bright flowers such, the color is very easy to overflow, D2XMODE II Sharpening 5; Sarturation +2; Contrast +1 D2XMODE III Sharpening 6; Sarturation +1; Contrast +1 shooting outdoor portraits, or the proportion of the more important background portrait occupies Standard Sharpening 5 for indoor portraits or portraits occupy most of the basic picture of the situation D2XMODE1 Sharpening 5 trellis can be seen from this set distributed fairly evenly, basically according to the shooting set to the appropriate choice of subject matter can, do not need to fine-tune the parameters of the interim. Of course, these settings only for later direct the request. The NEF is willing to deal with, many tools to achieve better results. By the way, NX2 is really very, very easy to use. These are just a personal opinion, for reference, but also friends who are interested are welcome to discuss together and promote each other. [2010-01-26 09:05 add the following] originally wanted to stick some of the calibration graph shows the applicability of various optimization, and later has been busy on the delay. Through a period of use, exploration and learning, the use of Pcicture Control for a deeper understanding of the content found written above is not comprehensive, machinery and even Cuoe place. So I decided to write about personal awareness and use of PictureControl Zatan, these things are in the learning process I was not looking for ready-made materials, and write like me want to give Photographic need to provide practical information, detours. Because of the photo quality of the judgments are the wise see wisdom, so some areas is just my personal preference, not absolute, we welcome the discussion. I start from the first 58 updates, as currently drafted, ten minutes to talk about optimizing the calibration area, years ago, finished his fight in the following order: 1, the real world JPEGVSRAW2, surprising Neutral3, optimized calibration mode 4, Rui 5 degrees, saturation, contrast, brightness 6, dynamic D-Lighting7, the curve is not a panacea 8, 9, calibration and optimization of landscape, portrait and optimization of calibration 10, optimized calibration philosophy [2010-02-11 13:10 add the following] Theme Manager application appears to be more difficult, and gradually add new content to the next, we facilitate browsing. As an additional bit difficult, so if there is the wrong place also please refer to the following original replies. 1, the real world, JPEG VS RAW because I mainly said Pictrol Control of the machine settings, mainly in terms of the JPEG, it is necessary to first talk about the issues on the RAW and JPEG. Technically, RAW and JPEG How many differences have been enough talk, I do not want to say. Random search on the network, they would have a lot of relevant text, although there are many Cuoe place, most are pretty close. However, in reality the shooting, both of which can reflect how much difference? Referred to machine straight out of the general means straight out in the current JPEG, so this issue should first be clarified that JPEG and shoot straight out of the number of gaps exist in RAW. I thought, RAW JPEG comparative advantage mainly in post-production on the degree of tolerance. A RAW image, post room for adjustment is much larger than JPEG. We all know, RAW image similar to the film, however adjustments can be restored to its original form, that is generally non-destructive post-adjustment, which is JPEG can not. And because the RAW JPEG image than the median width of its colors, now usually 12 bit or 14-bit, in the adjustment process of the richness of the color better, as long as overflow does not extremely high light operation, these faults are generally not occur Levels JPEG often the case. Compared to the RAW and JPEG is not all advantages, there are also inadequate. On the one hand, RAW images take a large space, the need for greater capacity memory card; the other hand, is very important, if the RAW, then, a lot of machine optimization software will not be applied to the image. Although some people think the machine to do the optimization software is the , including the hidden corners of correction, distortion correction, purple fringing correction, noise reduction, etc., often manufacturers think a better balance. So, in fact, the main difference between RAW and JPEG image optimization method is different. RAW images are taken after the application of specialized software to optimize the individual by the photographer, and JPEG images are recorded in almost the same time the image taken by the camera according to the settings in the camera automatically optimized. Thus, there is a shooting RAW and JPEG important difference: in time, space, composition and other basic forms other than those for RAW shooting, to ensure that the exposure accuracy is almost the only thing of concern; and photographer for the JPEG, for all aspects of settings must be extremely careful. JPEG photo because usually there will be post-mass loss process, the JPEG means that do not want to post-production, and the camera's JPEG photos showing you all machine settings are closely related. In other words, the RAW image, there is enough time later to fix and modify, and JPEG image is in the So, in the JPEG in terms of what is worth noting what it? Conversely,dr beats Small piece collection of stickers (laugh, RAW, I usually feel that it need modification? First, the overall picture brightness and contrast adjustment in the RAW image will always be used in the general exposure compensation and dark correction, dark correction, especially useful; of course, the curve and Levels; followed by the color saturation of the screen and adjust the saturation of the color channels. It is from these two, I think the Picture Control settings in-camera JPEG straight out of it is the most important. Picture Control includes curves and color, in fact as powerful CaptureNX2 in LCH to use, set properly, will make the effect of JPEG photos directly from improved significantly. JPEG straight out if you want to master and personalized Pictrure Control of the machine settings will be necessary, of course, for straight out of JPEG, apart from the Picture Control is more important is the exposure of the grasp. JPEG images should make the RGB histogram of the distribution and Luminence as reasonable as possible, and to note, for the RAW image as the Therefore, in principle, the exposure should be as far as possible to the middle histogram distribution, high light and shadow do not overflow. Of course, this is only a general theory, according to the needs of high-profile photo and dark tones to natural need to analyze specific issues. In addition, several parameters must also be aware of the following post in the film can not be changed, that must be carefully set in the shooting: ISO, aperture, shutter, high sensitivity noise reduction, long exposure noise reduction (more than a few RAW also can not be adjusted later), white balance, color space, dynamic Dlighting, image size and compression methods. Anyway, word, straight out of JPEG, suggesting that the settings in the shooting and careful attitude. As a result, I think RAW is the standard lazy way, and the reason I like to shoot RAW. In fact, it is usually taken in the lazy, that makes RAW so important. I admit, in the wide gamut of the monitor or inkjet printer, AdobeRGB and sRGB will be there are some differences, USM sharpening control and noise reduction later than inside the course to be more flexible. But when you come at an appropriate time an appropriate occasion, with the correct time to take a picture set, RAW and JPEG differences may exist only in theory. Recommended to see Bob Krist description of JPEG and, of course, you can also see KenRockwell usual insane madness. Finally I think the JPEG parameter settings are listed below normal white balance: Auto A2 Color Space: sRGB dynamic D-Lighting: close the high sensitivity noise reduction: the soft long exposure noise reduction: Off 2 features amazing NeutralNikon Optimization of calibration of color, there are three: Standard (SD), Neutral (NL), Vivid (VI),monster beats by dr. dre Mentality is not good so, can be downloaded through the official website to the Portrait (PT) and Landscape (LS). In addition, the previously used D2XMODE1 (M1), D2XMODEII (MII) and D2XMODEIII (MIII), or in some models can also be loaded by CaptureNX2 use. Nikon Picture Control settings to provide a standard color, to note that these data can not be certain third-party RAW conversion software to open, so open NEF files in ACR and CaptureNX2 open NEF files in there will be significantly different . I believe there are many people like me will be the first LS and VI attracted to the color calibration optimization, because through the right contrast and saturation settings, can be colorful and full of contrast pictures, this will make the photo shoot and in the past The DC significantly different. At one time, I have been my default setting on the LS, Saturation +2, Contrast +1 set in. However,cheap beats by dre, I found very early, in some photography on the inside, often more respected NL and earlier MII mode. Thom Hogan's D300 guide such as recommended in the NL, according to him, even if a little oversaturated SD; and Jason Odell's guide in the CaptureNX2 is recommended MII. I used to not understand this, because the NL out of the picture contrast is too low, saturation is very low, not to mention the default sharpening Nikon also low, making the pictures look quite the Than the NL because the contrast of the high MII many, the picture is relatively bright, so need to restore the true colors, especially in the scenes of red and green theme, I would choose to use the MII, MII this time I can find true color reproduction better, the color is not likely to cause overflow. Until one day, I figure the next high-contrast scenes, I use the NL, contrast -1, I truly realize why NL Thom Hogan say good. This can be clearly seen in the backlight of the NL can restore the color more accurately, and performance can be described in more detail here is a glance. From that point on, I began to seriously re-examine the original NL consigned to limbo by my model and found that in many situations even if this is the best JPEG straight out of one of the options. At the same time, I appreciate the picture finally came into contact with DSLR from the blind pursuit of high contrast to full-screen in different scenes and different methods of comprehensive analysis of the performance of a step, I think this is very important. PS Thanks to post-represented means to do effects to the screen, add color,beats by dre review, resulting in thick and heavy and high contrast is the simple things become, the bright colors and high contrast images can often give a strong visual impact, so that people think that photo is beautiful. However, these are the United States and in many cases excessive and not good-looking. When I re-examine the past to do some post-production, I found lots of photos a strong contrast and strong colors are obviously false and flashy, and the color channels in the following also shows a serious overflow. Proper understanding of the low contrast and low saturation NL model, in fact, master the Picture Control is an important process, because the LS VI, and easy to identify these patterns, and to identify NL mode, which means really begin to understand the different scenarios How to apply as a reasonable optimization of the calibration right rather than blindly pursue a particular aspect of emphasis and exaggeration. I think, for the seriously late, NL model may indeed be the best choice; However, straight out of the machine, and Thom Hogan said different NL models often may not be appropriate. I will now SD model as his own general settings, and according to the situation in the NL, LS, MI and other models to choose, so that the results obtained than before blindly focus on the LS a lot better. I have the brochure said Nikon SD model is In fact, straight out of the machine when the application of LS and VI color portrait photo shoot is often terrible, and landscape photos taken by the majority of NL may not be satisfactory. In turn, had, indeed, is the SD model photos at least not too far off the mark. Therefore, I want to say here is that a comprehensive understanding of an optimal alignment of each find its own characteristics and habits, is set by the machine straight out of good effect the key. Although these models LS and VI often eye-catching bright colors and high contrast, but in the correct application of NL is sometimes able to unexpected situations. LS Sartuation +2 NL Contrast-1 Please note the plaque below the eaves 3, optimize the calibration model calibration settings to open the default optimization parameters, you will find that in addition to sharpness (Sharpening), other parameters are the same. The fact that these different models not just the difference between the resulting sharpness that simple. For each calibration model, Nikon is given a different curve, so that each key in an optimized calibration of saturation, contrast, color shift, and that there are differences, large or small. By DPReview screenshots can clearly see that in the default settings, SD, NL, and VI curves of three models are very different (note that, although seemingly not very different from the curve, in fact, this difference curve reflected in the image is considerable.) It can be seen from the chart, VI curve is steep, both in light and dark have some high compression is more obvious dark; and NL curve was greater tolerance (Dynamic Range, DR), compared with SD, NL get the main details in the dark, high-light some of the basic overlap. Therefore, it is clear that the overall picture is dark with high contrast will highlight Levels Levels or the expense of detail. For the purposes of photographers shooting RAW, NL, and MII may indeed be the most convenient option, but it is built on the basis of post-production. From the perspective of the machine set, each model has its own characteristics, so to optimize the calibration set can form their own style and fixed-style, to master each of the characteristics of an optimal alignment is the first step. SD SD model as a manufacturer to set the Either saturation or contrast are controlled in a more balanced range, the shooting portraits is not easy to saturation and contrast are too high, do not shoot landscapes is very Overall, SD is slightly higher than the saturation mode, making do, such as Nikon claims that in most cases can get brilliant photos. Described by Thom Hogan, SD mode, a slight bias orange red, green, slightly yellowish, some color easy to overflow, that saturation is too high. NL NL is the Occasions in the general landscape, with the NL's first shot may be the picture feels like a mask a layer of dust. VI VI is available to bright colors, the curve steep, high contrast, easy loss of shadow detail and highlights overflow. Meanwhile, VI color saturation, color cast at the same time there is a lot of color. Although many people like bright colors, especially bright picture is often easier to attract the eye, but must be noted in the application of VI, the details of it often results in loss of color cast and the color of overflow. If you may also need post-production, then the more need to pay attention, because they had saturated the color is very difficult in the later correction. Can be downloaded from the Nikon web site optimization to two additional calibration mode. LS LS similar to the general characteristics and VI, and VI of the difference is higher contrast ratio curve of LS, but the color saturation lower than VI. At the same time, LS emphasis for each of a different color, I feel LS for red, yellow and other colors strong emphasis VI was not only more prominent emphasis on the green. In addition, performance on the green, LS slightly yellowish, and slightly bluish VI. The LS high contrast, so landscape photos taken at first glance often able to obtain good results. PT portrait mode, I basically do not,dr dre earphones, so it could not speak too much. Basic and personal feeling, like NL, slightly higher saturation, contrast, slightly higher, nothing more. Past use of optimization in the D2 series on the part of the calibration can still use Nikon's new models can also be used by CaptureNX2 import. If you can use, I feel that it is necessary to understand the three modes, you can more choices. M1 of my favorite portrait mode. And PT compared, M1 is slightly higher contrast, and color highlighted performance of M1, the skin seemed more rosy. In fact, D2 series MII should be considered the MII can be considered as a matter of fact I think that is a combination of SD and NL, MII low saturation, very basic and NL, but the high contrast MII, in fact, higher than the SD model. This makes the MII mode can be accurate, color cast, color easily overflow, and because the contrast is relatively high, the whole picture will not look too gray and soft. MIII D2 series for landscape mode, after my repeated use over time, has been basically no. MIII higher contrast, saturation, lower than the VI, if you want the results apparently did not get the bright VI to well; if you want accurate colors and no MII ones. In fact, I think the MIII bit color cast, the whole picture will look bluish, cool. From the green, if LS yellow, VI bluish, the MIII more blue. Here, I basically did not relate to specific applications optimized calibration mode, I think will be restricted to a certain pattern, How to optimize the calibration model applied deep understanding. Instead, optimize the calibration of these saturation and contrast in terms of awareness about, and an optimized calibration model for each aspect of the emphasis, for the ever-changing select the appropriate scene mode does have a great reference significance. Jason Odell optimized calibration model optimization compared ThomHogan comparison calibration mode, followed by Standard, Neutral, VividDPReview optimized optimized calibration curve model the main features of the calibration mode 4, sharpness in each Picture mode settings available for your selection item has sharpness, saturation, contrast, brightness, hue a total of five. For the default settings, the only difference is that various modes sharpness. Therefore, it should be noted that in using the default settings when comparing various models, in addition to the difference between the model itself, there are differences between the default sharpness setting, which is not overlooked. To remove the sharpness of the pattern can be carried out in the Picture Control Utilities in the custom settings, and then compare ViewNX or CaptureNX import. In fact, the sharpness of the entire screen is quite large. For sharpness, there are two extreme view. Instead of thinking more is to see a sharpening of detail, resulting in significant artificial marks, making the picture has a strong Some of these people come from the film era - in fact most probably just a little plain on the experience of film began to get carried away - so old also like to labeled Another sharpening like intense, I feel that the photos only In fact, the sharpening and digital imaging principle is relevant, and should be viewed objectively. Digital imaging, whether or silver imaging, are just different ways to capture the light, we can only say that the digital imaging and the difference between silver halide imaging, their advantages and disadvantages, there is not who is more The need for sharpening the digital image is used with the filter before the sensor related, this is the premise of digital images must be sharpened. Fundamentally, the sharpening is to So, if you set the sharpness to However, over-sharpening may produce significant modification of signs, making the screen is not natural. So, the key point is that should grasp the degree of sharpening. Sharpen does not mean , the proper sharpening is to obtain sharp images of natural and necessary step. It should be said, sharpening is a simple step, if you want the best for sharpening a photo, not only requires skill, but also need to try and be patient. Mask sharpening adjustment and PS in the Smart Sharpen is sharpening up the steps may be used, for the strength, range, radius and other parameters can be adjusted to different requirements at different levels of sharpening. Of course, I want to say is now sharpening setting on the machine, so much talk about the late steps of software sharpening. However, the general principle of sharpening later software can provide an important reference. Sharpening the overall general may be divided into three steps. 1, compensation sharpening. This is a filter on the image to compensate for the softening and sharpening of compensation, so you can get the original image sharpness. Intensity due to different types of filters vary, but generally more high-end models tend to filter, so the greater the compensation required; 2, individual sharpening. This is to meet the different requirements of full screen images, details, contour, etc. sharpening; 3, output sharpening. Whether it is converted into network exchange image or use the printer output, we need an output sharpening. In particular inkjet printer, the photos usually do not play real sharp display, hence the need for output before sharpening. Through the above analysis, I think I can optimize the calibration of the sharpness set to have a general judgment. Optimization model for the sharpness of a variety of settings, in fact, there is no need to determine in accordance with the default settings, the setting principle is the same. Since compensation is a necessary step sharpening, so compensation should first determine the sharpening machine settings. In general, 3-4 is more appropriate for me, I tend to 4. Then, taking into account the requirements of the machine straight out, in fact, is the unity of the individual sharpening and output sharpening together, then I think 5-6 is the usual set of reasonable choices. For me, the portrait photograph I generally set at 5, while other photos are often set at 6. Some photos in the display would seem a little bit too sharp, but very suitable for printing. If you do not like very sharp pictures, especially like making sugar tablets, you can also set to a lower number of 4. Note that, the machine set sharpness to be only a balanced compromise, because too much of their choice less than USM. At the same time, different contrast and color effects sometimes significantly affect sharpness, which is only slowly in the actual use of the laws of their own to find the individual. In addition, there is little extra reminder, especially for a post-production habits, although you will see a variety of materials that require post-processing of the photo, sharpening machine should be shut down, but I think this sentence is worth open to question. In the treatment should be closed, but not in the shoot off. If you CaptureNX, you can easily turn off sharpening in post; if you use ACR, then it does not read the optimization of the calibration information. Therefore, if you open your post-sharpening and has nothing to do. However, if you are shooting the sharpness set to Therefore, in this case will be set at 5 or higher sharpness is the right choice. The effect of different sharpening machine 100% magnification the same scene sharpening, followed 0,4,6,95, saturation, contrast, saturation, brightness and contrast is that we often need to adjust the parameters to obtain satisfactory results. Note that the default mode of all the saturation and contrast is not the same, which has already been detailed before. Therefore, in optimizing the calibration mode, saturation and contrast of the adjustment is based on the establishment of fine-tuning of the default. Of course, that is fine-tuning, the effect is obvious. Adjustment of saturation on the screen may be the most significant impact is the largest tuning range. In general, high saturation can bring bright colors, often people like, but also likely to cause overflow and severe color channel color cast. I think, in fact, the color photographic response on two levels, one is true, followed by the modification. High saturation in most cases, the modification can bring a strong effect, but also a departure from the real situation.