i feel you may be ideal selecting short-range zooms and a lot of all
you'd like some prime (non-zoom) lenses. if you ever
can switch lenses,
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with less compromise. (obviously, you will be going to shell out alot more cash, and
carry all-around a even bigger, heavier lens bag. believe in me, you'll really feel the unwanted weight.
and it'll take you time to
switch lenses, which is also compromise,
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less compromise on picture superior.)
now people nevertheless enjoy zooms. the 70-200mm collection zooms costing $700 to $1200
are incredibly perfectly crafted. so you can't beat their comfort. and every time
you modify lenses you chance dust. but to get an outstanding zoom expect to spend for
it, after which it will be worth it.
if you don't like to transform lenses, p&s cameras have many major advantages.
they are much, much smaller and lighter. they use tiny sensors with brief
lenses designed for them. they never get dust on the sensor because they
are sealed. the beneficial ones (canon g series for example) have fast lenses.
however they you should not do shallow depth of field fairly nicely, or low-light,
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shall be noisier. (grain-like speckles in your photos.)
why do i want fast lenses?
fast lenses are lenses of large aperture (width), or low f-stop. (f stop
is the ratio between the width of the lens you are using and the
focal length.) fast lenses are
big and heavy, but you need them. fast lenses let you do shallow depth of
field. that means you'll be able to focus on a person and leave the background, and
also foreground, blurry. a large fraction of good photography uses this
trick to define the composition of a shot. small digital p&s cannot do this
highly properly, even though their lenses are sometimes quite fast, because shorter
lenses you should not have as narrow a depth of field.
fast lenses can be stopped down to be like slow lenses, and get even more depth
of field when you would like it. however, usually a stopped down big fast lens is
sharper than a wide-open smaller,
Microsoft Office Home And Student 2010, slower lens. most lens problems occur at the edges
of a lens, and if you stop down,
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fast lenses are also, perfectly, fast. they need significantly less exposure time or can shoot in lower light. they're great,
but they cost money
and are big and heavy. but most shooters won't work with significantly less.
why might i not need fast lenses?
while there is no substitue for your quick depth of field which only comes
from a fast lens, two new features will help you get by with much less light.
one is image-stabilization, which lets you shoot 2 or 3 stops longer while
handheld. (men and women are even now blurry when they move, however, which you
will not get with a fast lens doing the work.) secondly, the newest
generation cameras, especially the 5d mark ii and 7d are able to shoot
all the way to 3200 iso with minimal noise -- it's quite remarkable. so
you may decide to save some bucks and unwanted weight and get an f/4 instead of an f/2.8.
canon l series
canon "l" series lenses are generally agreed to be the top out there.
they are expensive, however. some 3rd party lenses are also quite fine
for 50-70% of the money. get the canon if you ever have the bucks, but if value
is important, consider sigma and tokina's high-end lines.
(they make fantastic lenses, the problem is their quality control is poor.
so be ready to exchange a lens once you get one of the duds. if this
is not for you, buy the canon.)
comparing lenses
two great sites will help you compare your lenses. the first is
photozone's
lens performance survey. large numbers of everyday people have given their opinion
on quality of various lenses. compare your choices with some of the others,
then search for prices at b&h photo or on ebay. they also have the
lens test guide
that's based on external sources. combining all this info, with what's
below, gives the most complete picture.
the other site is photodo.
this site has done actual lab tests about the performance of various lenses.
the tests are useful, but be careful, as they measure only one particular
factor about a lens, and their weighting may not be what you want to use.
in particular, any time you have a camera with a small sensor like the 50d, you
might be happy to save cash on a lens which can be terrible at the corners.
perhaps it gets distorted there, or has bad vignetting. about the 50d and
similar cameras, you do not use that part of the lens, so you might save
a lot of income by getting a lens that is only good in the middle. note
that you won't be able to use that lens later on a film body or a full
frame body like the 5d. it's hard to predict -- some most people sense full
frame bodies will never be cheap -- but if they do become cheap your lens
won't have as long a life for you.
canon 50mm prime lens
Microsoft Office Home And Student 2010 what lenses
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