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speaking of shoes: the big picturefashionistas style
viewpoint by andrew scharf, head of the wcw group
it is general knowledge that many women wax lyrically about shoes and can have quite a collection. what is less known is that men can also be quite fanatical about footwear. perhaps not in the same way, but men do care what they put on their feet. in certain social environments, you are judged by your shoes. and you thought shoes just covered your feet?
the social and cultural connotations on shoes can speak volumes. the passionate debate the virtues of the goodyear or blake construction. the deeper you enter the subject the more perplexing the topic can become. in today’s world of luxury brand management, the topic is multi-layered beyond the balance of black or white or should i say brown. global and local brands have evolved tremendously over the last 10 years. there is more comfort, more style, and certainly more choice.
it is also not just a question of price. ready to wear shoes of quality carry significant price tags. however, they allow us access to shoes we will love to wear compared to many of the shoes some of us suffered through as children unless we grew up wearing custom made shoes.
bespoke shoes have always cost a kings ransom,tods mens shoes, but what you gain in quality, craftsmanship, and personal detail is beyond price. it becomes an issue of personalised comfort and in certain ways makes a strong statement concerning the person’s character, attention to detail and attitude towards life. the luxury lifestyle has always been about uniqueness and special treatment. what could be more unique than a pair of shoes?
in today’s market, particularly, ready-to-wear, there are hundreds of brands and styles to choose from. the taste of most men runs to the conservative, however many men are breaking the mould. just to give you a simple example, the renowned prêt-a-porter shirt maker,chaussures tod's hommtod's hommetod's homme, ignatius joseph, is not just famous for the excellent shirts he manufactures in italy,TODSGROUP, but for the red shoes he wears as one of his trademarks.
berluti,Tods New Arrival, long appreciated in paris has brought the art of shoe design to another dimension and is partly responsible for the shift in shoe design. always an innovative firm, the company took to layering different colours into the patina to give their shoes a unique feel and texture. do you know any other firm, which recommends using champagne and a cashmere cloth to polish their shoes? talk about mystique,tods menstodstods mens, this is hard to beat in terms of luxury and exclusivity.
many other firms have jumped on the bandwagon although few firms have mastered the technique as well as berluti. berluti also sports a ready-to-wear collection of just about every style the company manufacturers. by doing so, they can satisfy more people who are not ready to go totally bespoke but still appreciate the finer things in life.
one of the finest styled shoes and arguably one of the best in both bespoke and prêt-a-porter is corthay. i have often spoken about pierre and his brother christophe and the passion and integrity these brothers have brought to the art of shoe making. their small shop establishment is more than just a shop; it acts as a club for footwear cognoscenti.
currently, the brothers have reorganised the firm in order to manufacturer more shoes to keep up with global demand. their expansion and aspirations are reaching new heights as they hope to make both goodyear and blake shoes starting this year. the quality of their shoes is clearly outstanding and marks the feet in comfort and style. what every buyer should know whether it is corthay, lobb, or berluti is that the prêt-a-porter collections and accessories bring these houses the cash revenue to continue to practice their bespoke art for a smaller clientele. keeping the tradition of handmade shoes alive in europe requires financial astuteness and continual strategic planning.
another firm back in the news in recent years is church’s. this is a global brand created in 1873, and became recognised as a symbol of english quality and style. faced with bankruptcy a few years ago, the firm was purchased by an italian group, which has breathed new life, style, and vigour into this veritable institution. the shoes are still manufactured in northampton, and thanks to their new strategy have once again become fashionable. traditional church’s customers will not feel betrayed and the young are streaming into the stores to get the heritage vintage vibe. in italy the shoes sell like hotcakes, and in the summer many have been seen in their brown brogues, no socks, and slim jeans rolled up just north of the ankle. who said that style and practicality never go together?
probably the hottest trend on the street at the moment is the craze for loafers and moccasins. now for some this shoe never went “out of style”. however, it has been given a new definition. the young particularly are fond of the suede and bright coloured versions. check out tod’s, who gave the shoe a stylistic licence and you will see why with their rainbow assortment. however, many people want loafers with more than just a sole with rubber nubs. the blake style shoe is perfect for this. it is easy to slip on and needs no breaking in. brands such as ferragamo, gucci,Tods Sneakers, borgioli, crockett & jones, and george’s offer a wide choice.
suede shoes for summer are perfect. they allow us to shuffle around without wearing sports shoes, are comfortable in the extreme, and allow us to wear colour this summer with the “devil may care” attitude. the italians clearly make the most inviting versions.
when i think back to the original loafer manufactured by bass in the usa in that unique burgundy, i can’t help but to think how long it took to break in considering the thickness and stiffness of the leather used. they were robust, but did not give instant comfort. today’s clients want to slip on a pair of shoes with the comfort of glove leather offering accessibility. shoemakers who cannot provide this level of craftsmanship and quality will be dead in the water.
so what will you be wearing this summer? now where did i put my blue suede shoes?
about the author
andrew scharf is a regular contributor to wcw insight on culture, fashion, and lifestyle. he heads the career management and mba coaching divisions of whitefield consulting worldwide helping people harmonise their professional objectives with their personal aspirations.
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