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Lisa Snowdon Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
Still, might it be missing a trick by not approaching industry heavyweights? Just think of the global demand that, say, Burberry (which, interestingly, says "developments are underway" in Fairtrade cotton) could create. "We want brands like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen to engage with us in the future, once we've repositioned Fairtrade cotton through our current projects to show that it can be part of innovative design," it says. But Dolly Jones reasons that "designers are unlikely to afford a full collection; better to ask them to create a capsule of headline pieces. Capsule collections have a cult appeal - people like to collect them."
Lisa Butcher Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
Lisa B Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
Next: a two-in-one assault on designers and the high street via its scarf project - Marios Schwab, Louise Gray, Holly Fulton and Richard Nicoll have just signed up to create scarves out of Fairtrade cotton for Asos. They go on sale during Fairtrade Fortnight next February. The fortnight is its biggest platform for raising awareness - one in four people bought a Fairtrade product as a result of seeing this year's campaign. A trendy street-style blog allowing customers to upload pictures of themselves wearing the scarves is also planned.
Liz McClarnon Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
Let's be brutal: compared to the gazillion fashion ranges out there, Fairtrade stuff seldom stirs the "excited" lobe in the brain. We know it's deserving of our hard-earned cash, we've seen on the telly that schools and medical centres could be built in some of the world's poorest countries from the premium we pay for their cotton,buy visvim shoes, and yet...
Buy more fairtrade clothing and accessories from the Telegraph Fashion Shop
Ali Bastian Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
Fairtrade goes fashion - Telegraph
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Fairtrade goes fashion
Fairtrade cotton celebrates its fifth anniversary this month and it has had something of a style revamp, says Phong Luu.
Though a scarf isn't exactly a huge step forwards in changing the perception of Fairtrade fashion, the recruitment of these "new gen" design talents and Asos, one of the most influential e-tailers now, with a core clientele of teens and twentysomethings, is. Put simply, it's tapping the next generation of shoppers and designers in an attempt to harbour their loyalty. Ditto why it's working with fashion students at Central Saint Martins to produce designs using Fairtrade fabrics. "We need to inspire a new generation of design leaders to integrate sustainability at the core of what they do," says long-time Fairtrade ambassador, Laura Bailey.
As such, the bods at Fairtrade have upped the fashion ante for Fairtrade cotton's fifth anniversary this month by embarking on a re-brand. Their aim? To attract more fashion-forward high-street retailers and designers to use the morally worthier, but more expensive Fairtrade cotton. Their logic is that more stylish pieces will be brought to the mainstream by labels that aren't purely Fairtrade. The overall point is, of course, to increase demand for Fairtrade cotton; last year, sales in the UK were worth ￡50.1 million, down from ￡77.9 million in 2008.
It's Zanditon who thoughtfully voices the approach truly needed for change. "You can make fashion from Fairtrade fabrics, but I would argue against the idea of a type of fashion that is outside the rest of fashion. I'm a designer, I create clothing - I just choose to do it as responsibly as I can."

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Perhaps the problem is Fairtrade fashion's image: no matter that brands like People Tree, which has Emma Watson as its glamorous "face", are moving the clothes beyond the stock Fairtrade tee, or that Bono's wife Ali Hewson is injecting rock-star glam with her Edun collection, the drippy hippy sackcloth image sticks in the minds of the masses. Not exactly a great USP.
This ethos comes with the support of the British Fashion Council. At London Fashion Week in September, the Innovation Award for designers who work with sustainable fabrics was launched. Ada Zanditon won with her sculptural cuts and beautiful prints (and not a sackcloth in sight). "All the cotton in the collection is Fairtrade," she says. "I use a wide selection of sustainable fabrics, choosing each on the merits of its aesthetics in relation to the concept I'm trying to express."
www.fairtrade.org.uk


The Foundation's first light-bulb moment is its starry ad campaign - not exactly fresh,hair ghd, but it ticks the "glamour" box while raising awareness. To wit, the glossy black-and-white portraits of Laura Bailey, Lisa Snowdon, Ali Bastian, and others modelling Fairtrade clothing shot by celebrity photographer Trevor Leighton are less drip, more hip. They will go on show at City Hall on London's Southbank today for two weeks, before touring the rest of the country.
BY Phong Luu |18 November 2010
Laura Bailey Photo: TREVOR LEIGHTON
"People don't tend to buy something just because it's made from Fairtrade cotton - they have to love the product first," says Rachel Hearson of the Fairtrade Foundation, the non-profit body which sets the policies and is spearheading the revamp. Dolly Jones, editor of vogue.com , seconds that view. "Ethical fashion works when it offers style first and its ethical advantages as a secondary benefit. That way, people will be prepared to pay the higher prices."
This repositioning wouldn't work if the main existing high-street retailers of Fairtrade fashion in the UK - Marks & Spencer, Tesco,MBT, Sainsbury's, John Lewis, Laura Ashley,hogan on line, Debenhams, Monsoon and Topshop - weren't in synch, too. "We have added more of a fashion edge to the garments in keeping with spring/summer 2011 trends," says Alice Jackman, denim designer at Topshop, of its new Fairtrade cotton range of shorts, jeans and jerseys. More could be done at the others - which still proffer a lot of the basics stuff - but it's a start.
Daunting task? Maybe, but considering Fairtrade coffee and bananas took a good 10 years to take off, and if David Cameron can turn drab Whitehall into a voguish mecca with his new "business ambassadors", Tamara Mellon and Anya Hindmarch (who proved eco can be a fashion phenomenon with her "I'm not a plastic bag" tote in 2007), anything's possible. But fresh ideas are needed.


"It's vital to utilise cotton in a modern fashion through strong design," says Holly Fulton, who is famous for her jazzy Art-Deco prints. "Hopefully, projects such as this will encourage that; I certainly look at Fairtrade in a different light now."

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Today I am leaving for a two week vacation to Europe. My long lost college roommate and I are going to be hitting up Spain and Italy and in Italy Vlad will be meeting up with us for a Gondola ride or two! I am super excited for this vacation and this time will actually be vacationing. We are lucky enough to have someone who will write posts for me while I am gone, Nerdphanie! You all remember her as a guest blogger! Now she is signed on as a two week blogger to fill my spot. She will bring you lots of new bags and goodies to look at. I will be posting sporadically, but not my usual four or five posts a day