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Manolo Blahnik: "Men say my shoes have saved marriages" - Telegraph
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Manolo Blahnik: "Men say my shoes have saved marriages"
Shoe designer Manolo Blahnik defends a woman's right to wear tall heels - and a man's right to see at them.
BY Celia Walden |23 September 2010

Manolo Blahnik at the beginning of his store in Dubai

'Don't insult me,Womens Air Max 90," says Manolo Blahnik. "I don't see myself that way, and if others do, that would make me sorrowful." The charge is not one that many would discard so violently - surely nor of the other 2 designers who make up the divine trinity of modern footwear, Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin. The charge is that, after four decades of designing shoes for the world's most prominent women, Blahnik is himself a celebrity.
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Were it not for a certain TV show, the man Naomi Campbell phones "the godfather of sole" would probably have maintained a greater anonymity. Bianca Jagger may have worn a pair of his shoes when she rode into Studio 54 on a nag in 1977 and Princess Diana was said to own more than 50 pairs, merely it wasn't until Carrie Bradshaw was mugged for her slingbacks on ###### and the City that Blahnik's surname became a part of the feminine dictionary.
"I never watched the show," the 67-year-old grimaces, shamefaced. "At the time I just thought that it was almost these stupid New York girls, but then someone sent me a tape of the mugging episode and I thought it was so comic. Not the fact that the girl was mugged, of way, because I would never want that." Overhearing our commute, Blahnik's PA calls out from her office and informs us that only recently a juvenile British journal stylist was pillaged for a pair of his shoes. Blahnik looks horrified. "Is that true? That's very upsetting…"
In his purple suit and bow knot, fuchsia suede shoes and fine white cilia combed behind in an urbane, Mad Men slick, Blahnik is a organism from distinct era. His mind is light and mythical and he is eager to please,buy fivefingers online, apologizing me to rein in the wild tangents that depart him breathless ("I can't help it - I go on like a pat sometimes.")
When you consider that this same imagination is responsible for the beautiful mania of his designs (a single burgundy stiletto sandal with an ankle strap designed to wind itself like ivy up a woman's calf sits on the table among us), it's hard to resent the muddle of his thought processes. Like his neatness, his references are resolutely uncontemporary. He hates planes and trains, and right now, is "stuck in a 19th-century period: everything is influenced by Proust, Tolstoy, Balzac and Flaubert - Madame Bovary looking heavenly and rushing off to her sweetheart in these shoes." Back in his Georgian town house in Bath, where more than 25,000 pairs of his "stupid shoes" are stored chronologically, he doesn't peruse newspapers or see television, today's celebrity circus being of little interest.
"It's not the vulgarity of it - vulgarity's OK," he maintains. "And bad taste is OKAY also, sometimes - however while,0 all those football people purchase your shoes…" he tails off with a puny tremble. "But really, I'm not interested in all that."
Princess Diana, he concedes, "was particular,0. She wore my shoes with such elegance and had a luminosity I've only seen matched by Julie Christie. Maybe Kate Moss has someone of that too, now, because she's funny as well as being beautiful, but really the entire celebrity phenomenon is only of magnitude because it makes you money. If it pays your factory employees and your taxes and it method that you can buy books, then I can see the point of it."
What drives him immediately and has forever driven him, he insists, namely "the satisfaction of discerning the shoes being made."
"Mr [Philip] Green could come morrow with a million pounds and I would still say not," he says,air max 2003 men, giving his bow-tie a defiant tweak. "How do you accept the quality? I'd be absolutely mortified whether it weren't up to scratch." Even the Rousseauesque range of cloths he has designed for a Blahnik pop up mart in Liberty, the World of Manolo, is a "mysterious emotion" as him. "Generally, I've realised that I just can't work for additional people. I'm lucky that I've got this tiny household commerce which suits me nice."
Blahnik can still remember the beginnings of that business - and the {first|at first,0} period, in 1972, that he saw a female wearing his shoes. "It was Talitha Getty, and she was walking down the King's Road in acid-blue shoes with pearly rubber heels." Later, it appeared that the Sixties' It-girl had bought each pair he'd made.
Born and heaved above a banana plantation in Santa Cruz de La Palma in the Canary Islands to a Czech father and Spanish mommy, Blahnik never arranged to get,0 a designer. In retrospect, his footwear charm was always there. "My mom used to wear these low espadrilles, and I remember musing how fabulously petticoat they were, with those bandages wound whole,0 the way up the thigh."
It wasn't until annuals latter,0, after studying literature at the University of Geneva and moving to London, where he worked as a PR for Joan Burstein, the author of Browns, that he found himself idly sketching shoes. "It was the Sixties and you could feel all this new genius coming via. Around that time I was introduced to Diana [Vreeland, then redactor of US Vogue] and she told me to 'do shoes'. When I did, I couldn't believe how speedily they took off. I had no idea that anything I was act was that different."
The sketches in his new book, Manolo's New Shoes - 170 illustrations of shoes with serpent laces, cherry ankle canes, and Himalayan goat fringes - bear testament to how differ that vision still is. In fact, it's hard to believe that everything as effervescent as these designs could bring an end to ... assisting a woman's body weight.
"I love making entities that not idea,0 could work, but sometimes my workers narrate me that it's just not feasible, and I must give up on an idea." Compromise, although, doesn't come easily to him. "I'll go with an aluminium heel instead of a titanium an, because titanium would be too cumbersome to walk in, but then it won't have the gleam I ambition."
To be certain that the structure underpinning his designs works, Blahnik has been known to test the shoes himself. "My assistants and I will attempt out every shoe ourselves, walking up and down the factory ground to make sure that there are no blisters." Blahnik says it's a misbelief to recommend that women can and ought study to walk in high heels. "A agreeable shoe should have balance, so you shouldn't must struggle to acquire,0 it right." Raising himself up four inches on an imaginary pair of heels and jostling with the carved wooden walking stick he has needed as yet he was treated for ligament destroy,0 in his leg, he shows me how it's done.
"It's the altitude that gives women that ######y rhythm when they walk - and that's what men love most." Reports yesterday that men "don't notification women in high heels," are erroneous, he maintains. "Anyone who says that must be out of their mind: the first thing that men look at are a woman's legs, and there is naught more flattering than high heels. The masculine response to heels is half regular,0 and half perversion, but some men tell me I've saved their marriage." There is something especially appealing, he feels, about voluptuous women in high heels. "Perhaps it's because it makes them lighter. What I don't like is teeny girls in high heels."
Does he accept the feminist view that high heels are a modern fashion of corsetry? "I've scrutinized women slipping their shoes off under the chart when I'm out having luncheon," he says behind a moment's cease. "And I think that it's such a strange, dated idea that you have to suffer to be beautiful. Surely we're more evolved and we understand now, that it's all rubbish. Anyway," he laughs, "I've seen plenty of feminists in New York wearing my heels."
The flats you might presume feminists would prefer aren't, oddly, repugnant to Blahnik. "Trainers are my fondle detest since,0 of the flat-footed way they make women wade and I do think it can be hard to wade elegantly in flats but there are far uglier shoes out there. The only shoes I like right now are at Lee [Alexander] McQueen, Azzedine Alaia and Yves Saint Laurent since,0 they are done with a sense of humour - but other people are making terrors."
Like Yves Saint Laurent, whom he remembers fondly, Blahnik is outraged by the notion that what he does is craft. "I don't consider it 'art' for one minute. But then I don't know what craft is anybody more."
A perk of never emulating mainstream is that he never finds his work "démodé". "I don't want to sound like a pompous old man, but when I look at some of the shoes being designed by students now, I do sometimes think 'God, I'm still influencing shoes, 30 years on!'?" Financial and inspired success alongside, Blahnik still has one thing left to wish for. "One daytime, I want to design the perfect shoe - and I think I will. I just need a few more years."
'Manolo's New Shoes' by Manolo Blahnik (Thames & Hudson, ￡24.95) is obtainable for ￡22.95 plus ￡1.25 post and packing from Telegraph Books, please call 0844 871 1515 or go to writings.wireless.co.uk
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